Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Finally Finished Pedestal Table

Well it is done. One coat of wipe on Polyurethane. I will apply another later after a little finish sanding. But we have a Minwax finisher presenting to-night so I will wait and see what he has to say.
The top is quite nicely figured tiger maple. Slightly marred by dark streaks at the glue joins as I was too miserly to cut off enough of the wood to get rid of the weather darkening.
It seldom pays to be cheap with material use.

This picture shows the unfinished table outside.
And there you have it. I still have another table to make but will wait a bit before starting that as I have an order for many bowls which needs attending to.

Pedestal Bottom Finish

This picture above shows the tenon left at the bottom of the pedestal.

This is the "saucer" with a hole drilled the same size as the tenon.
I inserted a small walnut piece with some inset turquoise.

This is the piece finished on the lathe.
Here I am fitting the saucer onto the tenon. This will cover all the leg attachment complex and give a little visual unobtrusive "extra" to the table.

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Pedestal Table Leg Attachment

Well I glued the legs using 2 inch dowels and epoxy glue. The picture shows the elementary clamping technique using a hold down strap to exert pressure on the legs.
Of course with four legs the table does not stand perfectly flat so I will have to trim off a bit off two legs. The clamps on the legs just stop the strap from sliding off.
Here are some of the things I will do to improve the next one:
  1. Change the leg design slightly to allow for holding the bottom of each leg with an attached saucer under the column.
  2. Lighten up the column. This one looks a bit heavy (3 1/4 inch diameter) for the size of the top. I think 2 1/2 inch will suffice for a 17 inch top.
  3. Use three legs. Thus avoiding the "rocking table" syndrome.
  4. Improve the dowel drilling jig with metal inserts, a clamp down hold on the lathe bed and a larger clamp to wood for holding the legs at 90 degrees.
  5. All that said I still have to make another table of the same design as a "matching pair".
Well now to complete the finish saucer under the column and then finish sanding the table and apply a final finish.

Monday, September 28, 2009

Pedestal Table Leg Attachment Technique

This picture shows how the legs were drilled using a wood jig. The legs are clamped onto the jig and the jig is clamped to the lathe bed - for want of any free space in my tiny workshop.

This is a view of the drilling jig. The "L" shaped wood piece is what the legs are clamped against when the legs are drilled. Here the jig is set against the pedestal for drilling the holes in the post.
To ensure that the holes are drilled at center I used a mallet to mark the holes against the live center in the tailstock of the lathe. The legs are attached to the pedestal with 3/8 dowels. Since the jig was a little sloppy I used epoxy glue to attach the legs to ensure filling any small imperfections. I intend improving the jig by adding a piece at the bottom to allow clamping the jig to the lathe bed and enlarging the cheek block for clamping the legs. I also ordered some steel inserts to add to the jig to make the holes more accurate.

Pedestal Table Legs

Wood was cut into lengths at 45 degrees. Then these lengths were stacked and the leg template used to cut the legs on a bandsaw.

The top attachment point of each leg was cut into a concave using the circular saw and an angled fence.

Pedestal Table continued

Thought I had better put a picture of the pedestal in to better explain the shape. This is actually mounted on the lathe and then turned "upright" for a better view.
I said before that there were four beads. Actually there are only three - one and a half on top and one and a half near the bottom. The top beads were made a little smaller to give a better proportional look.
If you look closely you can see a tenon near the bottom which will be used to mount a small finish saucer which should cover the bottoms of the legs and spindle.

Pedestal Table continued

So I turned the top. Now I need the post and the legs. Here I have several (10) strips of hard maple glued together to make the pedestal out of. Actually this will make two pedestals since I am planning on making a matching pair. I made these pieces 27 inches long since the legs will lift the pedestal 4 inches off the ground and the table will add 3/4 inch that leaves a little extra to make a table that will be 29 inches tall when completed.

Here is the lamination turned into a cylinder.

Once I have the cylinder turned true I marked out the space to mount the legs and the space to provide the attachment tenon for the top - both essential. The top of the leg attachment will have a ridge to butt the legs against. This ridge is important for layout to mount the legs evenly and of course to establish the correct finished height. In between these two components -leg attachment and top tenon - I can insert the decorative part which will consist of four beads sandwiching an ogee curve.
The picture above shows how the layout is marked with coloured pencils. Red is left high and green is cut into first with a parting tool just to establish the depth then with a skew to create the beads. I also used a large spindle gouge for a lot of the curvey parts.

Pedestal Table

A customer asked me to make a "candlelabra" from some highly figured maple that he had. I figured it would take about 24 hours to make including jigs and fixtures as needed so the price was a bit high for him.
However I decided that since I already had a few pieces of curly maple all glued up and ready to make a small (17") table I would just need to make the pedestal and legs and stick them all together.
At first I thought I would try to make a dovetail joint but the jig to cut one on a round leg was a bit too complex to make and I changed to joining the legs to the pedestal with dowel joints.
I wanted to also write an article for a magazine to help defray costs so I have documented this as I went.
I started by turning the top from curly maple and attaching a plate under the 3/4 inch thick material to make a better join.

Here is the bottom of the table top with the glued on plate to act as an attachment point for the pedestal.

Friday, September 18, 2009

Fall Fair picture

Captivated audience of school children at the Kingston Fall Fair.
Lots of fun turning for these tykes.

Thursday, September 17, 2009

Kingston Fall fair

Made umpteen tops today for children as they came through from schools.
The tops were very popular at $1 each so I reckon if I have a chance tomorrow they will be a little more money.
I will try to post some pictures later.
Ken Waller was there in the afternoon and he turned several key chains, pens, bottle stoppers and a tipsy top. he is quite the consummate artist.

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Fort York

Did a little historical research at Fort York.
Took in the play at Fort York which Tanya was a part of.

Of course all the wood from the fort archaelogical digs has rotted away so artifacts were china and glass mainly.

The play was excellent and gave an historical perspective.

Saturday, September 5, 2009

Golf Trophy

I just completed this golf trophy base for a golfing customer. He supplied the wood and the Irish cut glass decanter.
This will be presented at an Irish Canadian tourney held at the Lookout Point Golf club near St Catharines Ontario.
The wood is a piece of highly figured birdseye maple from northern Ontario.
I am quite pleased with the results and the customer said he was too.
Alls well that ends well.